Some of our customers
European Space Agency-Philips Eindhoven-Oslo University-Tel Aviv Uni-Univ Colorado-Glasgow Univ. BMW-VW-Max Planck Inst-Ultra Cold Lab Singapore-Skolkovo Uni Moscow-ETH Zürich. Universites in the following countries: Sweden, Denmark, Germany, France, England, Italy, CH, Turkey, KSA (Saud), Egypt, Israel, India, China, Tawian, Japan, Peru , Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Scotland.
Special thanks to all individuals and companies who invested in our products.
Thank you for help and feedback in our “bleeding edge”, Karl Heinz and R* in Germany, Seb in Spain, Arthur in Haifa, Gregor and Stefan in CH, Didier, Thomas, Alexandra, Robinson, Uwe, Ulf, Sascha, Uorschla, and many more..
1) You can print faster:
Together with the Matchless nozzles, you can increase speed/layer height/nozzle size.
Example: If you have a drone part with a certain infill and wall thickness 2mm, you can now go 2 passes with the 1mm Matchless nozzle instead of 4 passes with the 0.40mm nozzle (the slicer takes care of this for you, according to your settings of nozzle size and your model).
Also with the Matchless nozzles you can print with a much higher layer and speed.
Example: After the upgrade you can print with 1mm nozzle, 0.5mm layer, 50mm /sec and more! This is 25 cubic mm plastic / sec. A standard UM2 can usually not do more than 8 cubic/sec.
2) You can print cooler:
If you prioritize quality and print slower, you can lower temperature a lot, sometimes by as much as 15 deg C!
Yes! It is a direct drop – in replacement.
Your “old” nozzles will work just like before, with the new block.
There is not one reason to do so, except theoretically:
The Matchless Block V3 is stealing a few millimeters of the maximum build height, compared to an original UM2.
Yes, most M6 nozzle may fit.
But in our experience they are flawed by numerous manufacturing mistakes including:
– Holes not sufficiently round
– Inside surface not correct due to use of wrong tool causing filament stick and carbonization
– Length not uniform causing head crash (could break glass plate and misaligning the head assembly)
– Top surface wrong geometry and finish causing leaks
– .. and more!
We do not recommend a 1 dollar nozzles on a 2.000+ € printer.
One crashed print and it is already not worth it.
We recommend my own nozzles, those from Deltatower in Switzerland and those from E3D in the U.K.
If the sensors do not come out in one piece. This applies to the Temp Sensor cartridge and sometimes the Heater cartridge.
In 10-20% of the cases users are unable to get the temp sensor (3mm diameter) out of the standard hot end. By pulling its cables it is destroyed.
In fewer cases the heater cartridge (4mm diameter) is also destroyed.
EXPERTS will still have a good chance of recovering the cartridges, by carefully drilling a 2-3mm diameter hole from the opposite end, of maximum 4.95-5mm (varies) . This will enable you to push the old sensor/heater out, if it is not destroyed by the drill bit.
The cause of this predicament is a manufacturing glitch in the hot end / sensor size. It is also caused by the hot flooded by leak because of a collapsing Teflon piece and broken Steel coupler (the grey one with the tiny radial holes). If the hot end is allowed to print or stay hot for some time (minutes or hours) the flooded filament is carbonized and gets very hard.
The cartridges will not be recoverable in such cases.
7 minutes if you did it before, 20 minutes otherwise.
You will need the tiny hex tools which came with your printer when you bought it.
The kit from 3D Solez ships with the other necessary tools.
You need the tools that came with your Ultimaker to uninstall the existing block.
The kit comes with the tools need to install the V3 Matchless block, and to. change the nozzles when you want.
That takes 15 seconds.